Sittipon Chanarat
     
      Every so often the agents of Guru stumble across a little hidden gem of a restaurant that shies away from the chaotic mess of this city and its clutter of corporate-owned chains. Located just in front of the historical Phra Sumen Fort on Phra Athit Road, Mister Pas is one such place.
      Not only does this friendly-looking cafe offer an unrivalled view of the aforementioned fort and a comfortable pew to spy on passers-by, but it is also sufficiently small and cosy to comfortably fit about 10 people inside. Mister Pas is so small it makes Koh Samet look like Manhattan. It’s so petite it makes Snow White’s friends look large in stature. It’s so teeny-weeny it makes an ant look like an elephant. Do I have to spell it out to you? Mister Pas is S M A L L.
      However, what makes this restaurant unique is not its doll’s house dynamics. It’s more than that. Mister Pas has character. All meals are prepared at a live cooking station right in the centre of the room with the chef facing you through a glass wall. The best part about this is that the moment you walk in your hunger will already be stimulated by the smell of duck or seafood being pan-seared in butter and spices. Meanwhile, grey concrete walls contrast quite delightfully with colourful paintings that were acquired from an eight year-old-girl and her 10-year-old sister.
      Two people – the eponymous Mister Pas himself, along with his girlfriend, run the place. And that's it. There are no ‘service representatives’ or teams of ‘client liaison officers.’ This is a pocket-sized operation run on Lilliputian levels. As a matter of fact, Mr P never thought that he'd run a restaurant and went to school in the land of the Kiwis to study commercial art. However, by working part-time in a kitchen he climbed his way up to become the head chef here. And I for one am glad that he did.
      But that’s enough background info. My fishing buddy and I were mesmerised by that damn hypnotic smell. With the aroma of seafood wafting from the kitchen, we started our meal with a daily special, Crab, avocado and Granny Smith salad with Tarragon vinaigrette (B195). I was wowed by the presentation alone. The crab salad sat at the bottom in a puck-like shape, the spring salad sitting atop like a flower, with the vinaigrette drizzled around the sides. The taste was both refreshing and well balanced, while the crunch and the fruitiness of the apple was paired beautifully with the richness and the soft texture of the crab and the avocado.
      Next up was our appetiser, Quesadilla with avocado cheese and tomato salsa (B120). The quesadilla was pan-fried until the other tortilla shell was golden brown and crispy. The shell had absorbed some of the oil from the pan, adding a smoky flavour that was richer than you would experience in a baked quesadilla. Upon biting through the tortilla there was also a little surprise past the hot melted cheese and the avocado – a mild pleasant kick of spring onion. Topping it off with the homemade salsa added a little touch of excellence to complete the dish.
      We two hungry fellows were still ravenous though, so we ordered more (it’s inevitable: the closest I’ll get to a six-pack is buying beer in 7-Eleven). Linguine with smoky sausage, prawns and black olives (B235) was another texture-diverse dish, overflowing with smoky flavours. The richness of the olives, the freshness of the prawns and the crunch of the sausage combined perfectly in my mouth.
      Finally, our main course arrived: Pistachio-crusted snapper fillet on Nero spaghetti (B325). The snapper had been baking in an oven somewhere in the background, while we were enjoying the rest of the meal, and it had soaked up all the aroma of the pistachio. I took a bite of the snapper, and like everything else I’d already tried, it contained a bit of a surprise. In between the pasta and the pistachios the fish had been coated with a light layer of mustard to accentuate the flavour. Breaking the snapper into little flakes and stirring it into the Nero pasta sure made a dangerously delicious combination.
      The meal was over and I was satisfied. Mister Pas may be diminutive but that is the beauty of the place. It’s independently owned and full of character and soul. The view of the fortress also sure enhances the experience. The tiny kitchen that is conveniently located in the centre of the place will just kill you with temptation as Mister Pas whacks some fresh prawns onto the searing pan with some sizzling butter. Mister Pas really attacks all of your senses. I'm KO'd.